THE BOARD SESSIONS | VOL.3
OUR CULINARY HEARTBEAT.
At the stove
On the stove
ANTON DE BRUYN
EMMA METZLER – FRANKFURT A.M.
RAINBOW TROUT
PIKE PERCH CEVICHE
GOLD TROUT
Fish. With Anton.
It’s time: BRETT-SESSION Vol.3 is ready – our first session with a guest chef. We debated a lot beforehand; it had to be something special.
Don’t we need at least one multi-starred avant-garde chef, ideally flown in from Spain or – even better – from Iceland? A really high-profile sensation?
Because actually we really wanted to choose our favorite restaurant in Frankfurt.
Not because it’s so close by, but because it’s truly special and extremely focused as a complete concept.
But is our personal preference relevant enough for our audience?
Questions upon questions...
In the end, luckily, we trusted our gut and found a great host for the first board session under a foreign flag with Anton de Bruyn, chef and owner of Emma Metzler in Frankfurt.
There is fish.
In three very different variations, skillfully prepared and arranged on the plate with simple precision. As always, Emma Metzler focuses on the product in its excellent quality. Today, the three fish come from regional organic farming and summer-ripe seasonal vegetables. That’s all you need for happiness. Maybe just a glass of the cider Anton poured during cooking.
Have fun trying it out and cooking along!
Joseph, Johannes
& Team
P.S.: One day after filming, the news came that Emma Metzler was ranked 7th among the 30 most innovative restaurants in Germany in the latest issue of FEINSCHMECKER. The only restaurant from Hesse. So it was still a high-profile sensation.
P.P.S.: By the way, you can make a reservation at Emma Metzler here: https://emmametzler.de/reservation/
Rainbow Trout
// gently cooked whole in the oven, bean-tomato salad and chive oil
"I wanted to serve a whole fish at lunchtime as simply and effortlessly as possible. Basically the equivalent of a small branzino at the Italian place around the corner. But it shouldn’t be a rustic fried trout. That’s how we came up with this “upright” version in the oven. Both fillets cook evenly, the preparation is minimal, and the cooking time in the oven is also very quick, under ten minutes.
The fish tastes pure and clean – perfect for me as a light lunch. In summer, it’s served with a fresh, crunchy salad of beans and tomatoes."
- THE BOARD SESSIONS | VOL.3
- “FISH. WITH ANTON"
for 1 person
------
- 1 rainbow trout
- approx. 300-400 g weight
- 150 g green beans
- 1 oxheart tomato
- 1 bunch chives
- 100 ml simple rapeseed oil
- 1 lime
- Salt / Pepper / Sugar
STEPS
1 - Wash the rainbow trout, cut off the head just behind the gill fins, and trim the belly flap including the belly fin on both sides. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan. Salt the trout, place it in an oiled pan, and cook in the oven for 10 minutes.
2 - Blanch the oxheart tomato in boiling water for 10 seconds, cool in ice water, then cut into large pieces. Remove the stems from the green beans and cook them in water until they have just a slight bite left. Also cool in ice water and cut into pieces about 3 cm long.
3 - Heat rapeseed oil to about 60-70°C. Finely chop the chives and blend them together with the heated rapeseed oil using an immersion blender. Strain the oil through a sieve, add lime juice, salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar, and toss with beans and tomatoes to make a lukewarm salad.
4 - Take the trout out of the oven, pull off the dorsal fin, and check the doneness at this spot. Then peel off the skin starting from the head side. Salt the fish and arrange it on a plate next to the bean and tomato salad.
NOTES
Pike-perch Ceviche
// acidified with Rheingau Verjus, young leek, green Tabasco, blanched Chinese cabbage, and potato straw.
"Pike-perch is one of the finest fish from rivers and lakes. It is traditionally always pan-fried on the skin. We wanted to try something new and thought the white, low-fat flesh would be great for a ceviche. And it is. To give the ceviche a local touch here in Hesse, we used the acidity of Rheingau Verjus (a juice made from unripe Riesling grapes).
This makes the ceviche a bit fruitier and less "exotic" than with lime juice. The potato straw is salty, fatty, and pairs perfectly with the acidity of the ceviche."
- THE BOARD SESSIONS | VOL.3
- “FISH.WITH ANTON."
For 4 people
------
- 1 pike-perch
- about 1 kg heavy
- 50 ml verjuice
- 1 lemon
- 1 bunch spring onions
- green Tabasco
- 1 Chinese cabbage
- 1/2 bunch coriander
- 4 large potatoes
- 20 ml plain rapeseed oil
- 500 ml rapeseed oil for frying
- Salt / sugar
STEPS
1 - Wash the pike-perch, fillet it, remove the skin, pull out bones, roughly dice, and keep cold on ice. Mix verjuice and lemon juice.
2 - Peel potatoes and cut into "angel hair" fine sticks. Wash out the starch in plenty of lukewarm water. Drain potato sticks in a sieve and then on kitchen paper. Heat rapeseed oil in a large pot to about 170° and fry the dry potatoes golden yellow. Drain again in a sieve and on kitchen paper, then lightly salt.
3 - Cut Chinese cabbage into leafy cubes, including equal parts white core and green leaves. Blanch the cabbage for 10 seconds and cool in ice water. Finely chop spring onions and soak the onion sharpness in ice water for half an hour. Then drain on a sieve. Finely chop coriander.
4 - Let the fish marinate with the verjuice-lemon acid for 5-10 minutes, then drain and reserve the liquid. Now season pike-perch, spring onions, coriander, and Chinese cabbage together with Tabasco, rapeseed oil, salt, sugar, and the reserved verjuice-lemon acid.
5 - Distribute onto four deep plates, pour over the marinade, and top with a small heap of potato straw.
NOTES
Golden trout
// hollow filleted and pan-fried on the skin, yellow tomato chutney, nasturtium flowers, and fried chanterelles
"In our kitchen, we have a gas grill with lava stones where we sear our meat - for the flavor. Since this summer, we've been trying to grill fish on it more often. For the golden trout on the evening menu, it was clear we couldn't serve the fish whole with bones. So we had to fillet it hollow. Tomatoes and chanterelles are a great combination that I especially love with freshwater fish.
Nasturtium always works as a little spicy touch to add some excitement."
- THE BOARD SESSIONS | VOL.3
- “FISH.WITH ANTON."
For 2 people
------
- 2 pieces of golden trout
- each weighing about 300-400 g
- 10 yellow Bolzano tomatoes
- 1 bunch nasturtium with flowers
- 300 g chanterelles
- 2 cloves garlic
- 6 shallots
- 30 g sugar
- 1/2 bunch chives
- 1/2 bunch flat-leaf parsley
- 1 tbsp mustard seeds
- 1 tsp coriander seeds
- 20 ml apple cider vinegar
- 100 ml apple juice
- 1 tsp cornstarch
- 20 g butter
- 1/2 piece lemon
- 50 g flour for dusting
- Salt / Sugar / Pepper
STEPS
1 - Wash the golden trout, hollow it out from the belly, remove the head, and pull out the bones.
Now lightly salt and even more lightly sugar the fish. Then let it "cure" in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
2 - Blanch the tomatoes in boiling water, cool in ice water, and cut into cubes including the core. Finely dice the shallots. Also finely chop or mince chives, garlic, and parsley.
3 - Melt 30 g sugar with a splash of water in a small pot. Add 2/3 of the shallots and half of the garlic, salt, and sweat slowly in the sugar until translucent. Add mustard seeds and coriander seeds, deglaze with apple cider vinegar, and pour in apple juice.
4 - Add the diced tomatoes and let simmer slowly. Once a compote-like consistency has formed, season with pepper, salt, and sugar. Mix the cornstarch with a little cold water. Thicken the boiling tomato chutney with a splash of the starch and let simmer for another two minutes. Let the chutney cool properly for at least three hours.
5 - Quickly wash the chanterelles in water and dry them on kitchen paper, preferably in the sun. Rinse the golden trout and pat dry. Then place the skin side into a plate with flour and coat the skin completely once. Fry the fish in a large pan over medium heat on the skin side until golden brown.
6 - Sear the chanterelles in oil over high heat for about 30 seconds. Add shallots and garlic, salt, and fry for another 30 seconds. Then deglaze with butter and the juice of half a lemon. Add parsley and chives and let steep covered in a warm place briefly.
7 - Place the chutney in two quenelles each on a warm plate, arrange the chanterelles in between. Drape the golden trout with the skin side up on top and garnish with flowers and leaves of the nasturtium.
NOTES
RECIPE: ANTON DE BRUYN | IMAGES & VIDEOS: FRANKFURTER BRETT GmbH
At the stove
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ANTON DE BRUYN |
EMMA METZLER
FRANKFURT AM MAIN
SCHAUMAINKAI 17
