THE BRETT SESSIONS | VOL.3
OUR CULINARY HEARTBEAT
BY THE STOVE
ON THE STOVE
ANTON DE BRUYN
EMMA METZLER FRANKFURT A.M.
Rainbow trout
Pike-perch ceviche
Golden trout
Fish. With Anton.
This is it. BRETT SESSION Vol.3 is here! Our first session with a guest chef. We discussed a lot in advance. It should be something special. Don’t we need an avant-garde chef, best flown in from Spain or Iceland? A top-class bang?
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But what we really wanted most was to choose our favorite Frankfurt restaurant. Not because it is so close by, but because it is very special and, as an overall concept, incredibly focused. But is our personal preference relevant enough for our audience? Question after question...
In the end we fortunately listened to our gut feeling and found a great host for the first Brettsession under a foreign flag in Anton de Bruyn, chef and owner of Emma Metzler in Frankfurt.
Today we have fish. In three very different variations. Masterfully prepared and arranged on the plate with simple precision. As always, Emma Metzler focuses on the product in its outstanding quality - today this is fish from regional organic farming and summer-ripe vegetables. Fortunately, that is all it takes. At most a glass of the cider that Anton poured out during the cooking process.
Have fun trying and cooking again!
Joseph, Johannes
& Team
P.S. One day after the shoot we learned that Emma Metzler was voted 7th of the 30 most innovative restaurants in Germany in the latest issue of FEINSCHMECKER. As the only restaurant from Hessen. So, a top-class bang after all.
P.P.S By the way, you can make reservations with Emma Metzler here: https://emmametzler.de/reservation/?l=en
Rainbow trout
// whole gently cooked in the oven, bean and tomato salad and chive oil
"At lunchtime I wanted to serve a fish whole as uncomplicated and simple as possible. The equivalent of a small Branzino at the Italian restaurant around the corner. But it should not be a rustic fried trout. So, we came up with this "set up" variant in the oven. Both fillets are evenly cooked, the preparation is minimal and the cooking time in the oven is also very fast with less than ten minutes.
The fish tastes pure and clean - for me it is perfect as a light lunch. In summer, you can serve it with a fresh crisp salad of beans and tomatoes."
- THE BRETT SESSIONS | VOL.3
- „Fish. With Anton."
for 1 person
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- 1 piece rainbow trout,
- approx. 300-400 g
- 150 g bush beans
- 1 piece oxheart tomato
- 1 bunch of chives
- 100 ml simple rapeseed oil
- 1 piece lime
- salt / pepper / sugar
STEPS
1 - Wash the rainbow trout, cut off the head with a cut behind the gill fins and cut off the belly flaps including the belly flap fin on both sides. Preheat the oven to 180° fan. Salt the trout, place in an oiled pan and cook in the oven for 10 minutes.
2 - Blanch the oxheart tomato in boiling water for 10 seconds, rinse in ice water, and then cut into coarse pieces. Remove the stalk from the bush beans and cook in water until the beans have only a slight bite. Also cool in ice water and cut into approx. 3 cm long pieces.
3 - Heat rapeseed oil to approx. 60-70°. Finely chop the chives and mix them with the heated rapeseed oil using a blender. Strain the oil through a sieve, add lime juice, salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar, and dress the beans and tomatoes to make a lukewarm salad.
4 - Take the trout out of the oven, remove the dorsal fin, and check the doneness at this spot. Then peel off the skin from the side of the head. Salt the fish and arrange it on a plate next to the bean and tomato salad.
NOTES
Pike-perch ceviche
// soured with Rheingau Verjus, young garlic, green Tabasco, blanched Chinese cabbage, and potato straw
"Pike-perch is one of the noblest fish from rivers and lakes. It is traditionally fried on the skin. We wanted to try something new and thought the white, low-fat meat would be good for a ceviche. And it is. To give the ceviche its flavor here in Hesse, we used the acid of the Rheingau Verjus (a juice from unripe Riesling grapes).
This makes the ceviche a bit fruitier and not as "exotic" as with lime juice. The potato straw is salty, greasy, and thus pairs well with the acidity of the ceviche.
- THE BRETT SESSIONS | VOL.3
- „Fish. With Anton."
for 4 persons
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- 1 piece of pike-perch,
- approx. 1 kg in weight
- 50 ml verjuice
- 1 piece of lemon
- 1 bunch of spring leek
- green tabasco
- 1 piece of Chinese cabbage
- 1/2 bunch coriander
- 4 large potatoes
- 20 ml simple rapeseed oil
- 500 ml rapeseed oil for frying
- salt / sugar
STEPS
1 - Wash the pike-perch, fillet it, remove the skin, pull out the bones, roughly dice it, and put it on ice. Mix Verjus and lemon juice.
2 - Peel the potatoes and cut them into "angel hair" thin sticks. Wash out the starch in plenty of lukewarm water. Strain the potato sticks in a sieve and drain them on kitchen paper afterward. Heat rapeseed oil in a large pot to approx. 170° and deep-fry the dry potatoes until golden brown. Drain again in a sieve and then on kitchen paper, then lightly salt.
3 - Dice the Chinese cabbage. Use equal parts of the white stalk and green leaves. Blanch the cabbage for 10 seconds and cool in ice water.
4 - Finely chop the spring leek and leach out the onion flavor in ice water for half an hour. Then drain on a sieve. Finely chop the coriander.
5 - Let the fish marinate with the Verjus citric acid for 5-10 minutes, then drain and collect the liquid. Now season the pike-perch, spring leek, coriander, and Chinese cabbage with Tabasco, rapeseed oil, salt, sugar, and the collected Verjus citric acid.
6 - Divide into four deep plates, pour the marinade over, and top with a small pile of potato straw.
NOTES
Golden trout
// released and roasted on skin, yellow tomato chutney, nasturtium flowers and roasted chanterelles
"In our kitchen, there is a gas grill with lava stones, on which we roast our meat - for the flavor. Since this summer, we have been trying to grill more fish on it. When we had the golden trout for the evening menu, it was clear to us that we could not serve the fish whole with bones. So, we had to hollow the fish. Tomatoes and chanterelles are a great combination for me, which I especially love with freshwater fish.
Nasturtium is also always used as a small source of spice to give the whole dish a special edge."
- THE BRETT SESSIONS | VOL.3
- „Fish. With Anton."
for 2 persons
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- 2 pieces of golden trout,
- each approx. 300-400 g
- 10 pieces yellow Bolzano tomatoes
- 1 bunch nasturtium with flowers
- 300 g chanterelles
- 2 cloves of garlic
- 6 pieces of shallots
- 30 g sugar
- 1/2 bunch chives
- 1/2 bunch flat parsley
- 1 tbsp mustard seed
- 1 tsp coriander seed
- 20 ml apple vinegar
- 100 ml apple juice
- 1 tsp cornflour
- 20 g butter
- 1/2 piece lemon
- 50 g flour
- salt / sugar / pepper
STEPS
1 - Wash the golden trouts, hollow out from the belly, remove the head, and pull the bones. Now lightly salt the fish and even more lightly sugar it. Then let it "pickle" in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
2 - Blanch the tomatoes in boiling water, cool in ice water, and cut into cubes including the core. Finely dice the shallots. Also finely cut or chop chives, garlic, and parsley.
3 - Melt 30 g sugar with a dash of water in a small pot. Add 2/3 of the shallots and half of the garlic, salt, and slowly sweat in the sugar until translucent. Add mustard seed and coriander seed, deglaze with apple vinegar, and pour apple juice on top.
4 - Add diced tomatoes and let it simmer slowly. As soon as a compote-like consistency develops, season with pepper, salt, and sugar. Mix the cornflour with a little cold water. Thicken the boiling tomato chutney with a dash of the starch and simmer for another two minutes. Now let the chutney cool properly for at least three hours.
5 - Quickly wash the chanterelles in water and let them dry in the sun on kitchen paper. Wash the golden trouts and pat them dry. Now place the skin side of the golden trouts on a plate with flour and coat the skin completely once. Fry the fish in a large pan over medium heat on the skin side until golden brown.
6 - Fry the chanterelles in oil over high heat for about 30 seconds. Add shallots and garlic, salt, and fry for another 30 seconds. Now deglaze with butter and the juice of half a lemon. Add the parsley and chives and let it rest briefly covered in a warm place.
7 - Place the chutney in two ramekins on a warm plate, arrange the chanterelles in between. Lay the golden trout with the skin side up and garnish with nasturtium flowers and leaves.
NOTES
RECIPE: ANTON DE BRUYN | IMAGES & VIDEOS: FRANKFURTER BRETT GmbH
BY THE STOVE
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ANTON DE BRUYN |
EMMA METZLER
FRANKFURT AM MAIN
SCHAUMAINKAI 17
