THE BRETT SESSIONS | VOL.3
OUR CULINARY HEARTBEAT
BY THE STOVE
ON THE STOVE
ANTON DE BRUYN
EMMA METZLER FRANKFURT A.M.
Rainbow trout
Zander ceviche
Golden trout
Fish. With Anton.
This is it. BRETT SESSION Vol.3 is here! Our first session with a guest chef. We discussed a lot in advance. It should be something special. Don't we need an avant-garde chef, best flown in from Spain or Iceland? A top-class bang?
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But what we really wanted most was to choose our favourite Frankfurt restaurant. Not because it is so close by, but because it is very special and, as an overall concept, incredibly pointed. But is our personal preference relevant enough for our audience? Question after question...
In the end we fortunately listened to our gut feeling and found a great host for the first Brettsession under a foreign flag in Anton de Bruyn, chef and owner of Emma Metzler in Frankfurt.
Today we have fish. In three very different variations. Masterly prepared and arranged on the plate with simple precision. As always, Emma Metzler focuses on the product in its outstanding quality - today this is fish from regional organic farming and summer-ripe vegetables. Fortunately, that is all it takes. At most a glass of the cider that Anton poured out during the cooking process.
Have fun trying and re-cooking!
Joseph, Johannes
& Team
P.S. One day after the shooting we learned that Emma Metzler was voted 7th of the 30 most innovative restaurants in Germany in the latest issue of FEINSCHMECKER. As the only restaurant from Hessen. So, a top-class bang after all.
P.P.S By the way, you can make reservations with Emma Metzler here: https://emmametzler.de/reservation/?l=en
Rainbow trout
// whole gently cooked in the oven, bean and tomato salad and chive oil
"At lunchtime I wanted to serve a fish in its whole as uncomplicated and simple as possible. The equivalent of a small Branzino at the Italian restaurant around the corner. But it should not be a rustic fried trout. So, we came up with this "set up" variant in the oven. Both fillets are evenly cooked, the preparation is minimal and the preparation time in the oven is also very fast with less than ten minutes.
The fish tastes pure and clean - for me it is perfect as a light lunch. In summer, you can serve it with a fresh crisp salad of beans and tomatoes."
- THE BRETT-SESSIONS | VOL.3
- „Fish. With Anton."
for 1 person
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- 1 piece rainbow trout,
- approx. 300-400 g
- 150 g bush beans
- 1 piece ox heart tomato
- 1 bunch of chives
- 100 ml simple rape seed oil
- 1 piece lime
- salt / pepper / sugar
STEPS
1 - Wash the rainbow trout, cut off the head with a cut behind the gill fins and cut off the belly flaps including the belly flap fin on both sides. Preheat the oven to 180° circulating air. Salt the trout, place in an oiled pan and cook in the oven for 10 minutes.
2 - Blanch the ox heart tomato in boiling water for 10 seconds, rinse in ice water and then cut into coarse pieces. Remove the stalk from the bush beans and cook in water until the beans have only a minimal bite. Also quench in ice water and cut into approx. 3 cm long pieces.
3 - Heat rapeseed oil to approx. 60-70°. Finely chop the chives and mix them with the heated rapeseed oil using a blender. Strain the oil through a sieve, add lime juice, salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar and dress with beans and tomatoes to make a lukewarm salad.
4 - Take the trout out of the oven, remove the dorsal fin and check the cooking point at this spot. Then peel off the skin from the side of the head. Salt the fish and arrange on a plate next to the bean and tomato salad.
NOTES
Zander ceviche
// soured with Rheingau Verjus, young garlic, green tabasco, blanched Chinese cabbage and potato straw
"Zander is one of the noblest fish from rivers and lakes. It is traditionally fried on the skin. We wanted to try something new and thought the white, low-fat meat would be good for a ceviche. And it does. To give the ceviche its taste here in Hesse, we used the acid of the Rheingau Verjus (a juice from unripe Riesling grapes).
This makes the ceviche a bit fruitier and not as "exotic" as with lime juice. The potato straw is salty, greasy and thus goes well with the acidity of the Ceviche."
- THE BRETT-SESSIONS | VOL.3
- „Fish. With Anton."
for 4 persons
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- 1 piece of zander,
- approx. 1 kg in weight
- 50 ml Verjus
- 1 piece of lemon
- 1 bunch of spring leek
- green tabasco
- 1 piece of Chinese cabbage
- 1/2 bunch coriander
- 4 large potatoes
- 20 ml simple rapeseed oil
- 500 ml rapeseed oil for frying
- salt / sugar
STEPS
1 - Wash the zander, fillet it, take off the skin, pull out the bones, dice it roughly and put it on ice. Mix Verjus and lemon juice.
2 - Peel potatoes and cut them into "angel hair" fine sticks. Wash out the starch in plenty of lukewarm water. Strain the potato sticks in a sieve and drain them on kitchen paper after it. Heat rapeseed oil in a large pot to approx. 170° and deep-fry the dry potatoes until golden brown. Drain again in a sieve and then on kitchen paper, then salt lightly.
3 - Dice the Chinese cabbage. Take the white stalk and green leaves in equal parts. Blanch the cabbage for 10 seconds and quench in iced water.
4 - Finely chop the spring leek and leach out the onion spice in ice water for half an hour. Then drain on a sieve. Finely chop the coriander.
5 - Let the fish marinade with the Verjus citric acid for 5-10 minutes, then drain and collect the liquid. Now taste zander, spring leek, coriander and Chinese cabbage with Tabasco, rape oil, salt, sugar and the collected Verjus-citric acid.
6 - Divide into four deep plates, pour on the marinade and top with a small pile of potato straw.
NOTES
Golden trout
// released and roasted on skin, yellow tomato chutney, nasturtium flowers and roasted chanterelles
"In our kitchen there is a gas grill with lava stones, on which we roast our meat - for the taste. Since this summer we try to grill more fish on it. When we had the golden trout for the evening menu, it was clear to us that we could not serve the fish with bones in its entirety. So, we had to trigger the fish hollow. Tomatoes and chanterelles are a great combination for me, which I love especially with freshwater fish.
Nasturtium is also always used as a small source of spice to give the whole thing a special tension."
- THE BRETT-SESSIONS | VOL.3
- „Fish. With Anton."
for 2 persons
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- 2 pieces of golden trout,
- each approx. 300-400 g
- 10 pieces yellow Bolzano tomatoes
- 1 bunch nasturtium with flowers
- 300 g chanterelles
- 2 cloves of garlic
- 6 pieces of shallots
- 30 g sugar
- 1/2 bunch chives
- 1/2 bunch flat parsley
- 1 tbsp mustard seed
- 1 tsp coriander seed
- 20 ml apple vinegar
- 100 ml apple juice
- 1 tsp cornflour
- 20 g butter
- 1/2 piece lemon
- 50 g flour
- salt / sugar / pepper
SCHRITTE
1 - Wash the golden trouts, hollow out from the belly, remove the head and pull the bones. Now salt the fish lightly and sugar it even more lightly. Then let it "pickle" in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
2 - Blanch the tomatoes in boiling water, quench in ice water and cut into cubes including the core. Finely dice the shallots. Cut or chop chives, garlic and parsley finely as well.
3 - Melt 30 g sugar with a dash of water in a small pot. Add 2/3 of the shallots and half of the garlic, salt and slowly sweat in the sugar until translucent. Add mustard seed and coriander seed, deglaze with apple vinegar and pour apple juice on top.
4 - Add diced tomatoes and let it simmer slowly. As soon as a compote-like consistency has developed, taste with pepper, salt and sugar. Mix the cornflour with a little cold water. Bind the boiling tomato chutney with a dash of the starch and simmer for another two minutes. Now let the chutney cool down properly for at least three hours.
5 - Wash the chanterelles quickly in water and let them dry in the sun on kitchen paper. Wash the golden trouts and pat them dry. Now place the skin side of the golden trouts in a plate with flour and completely flour the skin in it once. Fry the fish in a large pan over medium heat on the skin side until golden brown.
6 - Fry the chanterelles in oil at high heat for about 30 seconds. Add shallots and garlic, salt and fry for another 30 seconds. Now deglaze with butter and the juice of half a lemon. Add the parsley and chives and leave to stand briefly covered in a warm place.
7 - Place the chutney in two cams on a warm plate, arrange the chanterelles in between. Drape the golden trout with the skin side up and garnish with flowers and leaves of the nasturtium.
NOTES
RECIPE: ANTON DE BRUYN | IMAGES & VIDEOS: FRANKFURTER BRETT GmbH
BY THE STOVE
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ANTON DE BRUYN |
EMMA METZLER
FRANKFURT AM MAIN
SCHAUMAINKAI 17
